The 1502 Progress: The Vineyard at Over, Gloucestershire
Distance from Woodstock to The Vineyard: 48 miles
On the following day, she probably visited Brimpsfield, and was met at Prinknash by the Abbot of Gloucester, who conducted her through Gloucester to his mansion on The Vineyard Hill, where she spent the night.
Bristol and Gloucestershire Archaeological Society, 1876.
The Vineyard at Over: Key Facts
– When Elizabeth (and Henry) rode up the driveway towards The Vineyard, under the gatehouse and into the courtyard, they would have been greeted by a mid-fourteenth /early fifteenth-century building with four ranges arranged around a single courtyard, the site being encompassed by a moat.
– Following the Dissolution of the Abbey in 1539, the Bishops of Gloucester continued to use The Vineyard until it was largely destroyed by fire during the Civil War.
– In the late 1600s, the new owner began to tear down the building and sell off its contents, leaving merely the imprint of the courtyard and moat in the ground atop the hillock.
– Today, all that remains are the imprint of a flat plateau of land (the courtyard) and an impression of the moat.
From Coberley to The Vineyard at Over…
Having stayed overnight in Coberley Hall, the royal party was again on the move. As we read in the above quote, their destination was the Abbot of Gloucester’s fine manor house, which stood on a raised plateau west of Gloucester. The house was known as The Vineyard because of the ancient vines cultivated on its terraces since at least the thirteenth century.
Before going on, I should state that it is possible that somewhere around this leg of the journey, the itineraries of the King and Queen diverge for a day or two, but I will elaborate more on that in a moment.
We shall come to talk more about The Vineyard shortly, but first, let us explore some interesting questions thrown up by the opening quote. This comes from a series of papers published by the Bristol and Gloucestershire Archaeological Society in the late nineteenth century. The wording is very similar to an entry into another nineteenth-century book, which includes a collection of earlier papers from the Civil War called the Bibliotheca Gloucesteriensis: ‘a collection of scarce and curious tracts relating to the county and city of Gloucester illustrative of and published during the Civil War’. This states: ‘On the 4th August 1502, the Abbot conducted Queen Elizabeth, Queen of King Henry VII from Prinknash Park through Gloucester to his mansion on Vineyard Hill where she spent the night. She was on her way to Raglan Castle.’
This account suggests that Elizabeth was travelling alone. I wonder whether these early references gave rise to the incorrect notion that Elizabeth had travelled without the King throughout the progress and that this represented a rift in her marriage to Henry following the devastating loss of their son, Arthur, earlier that year. However, we can roundly refute this idea. We know Henry was on the 1502 progress because several entries in the King’s Chamber Books coincide with the itinerary dates, as I have described in the introduction to the 1502 progress.
I want to particularly thank Sam Harper, who was one member of the team responsible for transcribing the Chamber Books for the following clarification, sent to me as part of private correspondence:
‘There are a number of pieces of documentation that evidence Henry’s attendance. The first is the attached page from the Chamber Books (TNA, E101/415/3, f.102), which shows that he was away for 6 weeks without any of his usual chamber treasury staff in attendance. There are also a number of collaborating documents for dates on the itinerary, (e.g. 8-10 August – Northleach then ‘Cowberley’ or ‘Coberly’ (CCR2/142), Aug 12 – Gloucester (REQ1/3, f.10v & E404/84 – the latter is a warrant for payment; Aug13 – Flaxley (REQ 1/3 f.10v)…etc’
So, why these aforementioned accounts only mention Queen Elizabeth and not the King is impossible to say. That said, the reason for Elizabeth’s visit to Brimpsfield is easier to guess at.
The Manor of Brimpsfield
It turns out that the tiny village of Brimpsfield, which lies around four miles south west of Coberley, has a distinguished, if not notorious, past. There was once a mighty castle at Brimpsfield owned by the wealthy Giffard family. Unfortunately for them and the castle, the family fell foul of Edward II, who executed its lord, John Giffard, in nearby Gloucester in 1322. The King then sleighted the castle, leaving just earthworks to be seen today. However, the manor of Brimpsfield was passed successively from Lionel, Duke of Clarence, to Edward, Earl of March, then from Roger de Mortimer to Richard, Earl of Cambridge, before being inherited by Richard, Duke of York, father of Kings Edward IV and Richard III.
Brimpsfield Castle as it once was…The Manor of Brimpsfield was Part of Elizabeth of York’s Dower Lands
In 1460, the Constableship of Brimpsfield was conferred upon Cecily Neville, the Duchess of York, mother of the two kings mentioned above. British History Online records her as being the ‘lady of Brimpsfield manor’ in 1465, when she ‘secured the patronage of the church, and the demesne tithes [which] had evidently been absorbed into the living, which was then and later called a rectory.’ After Cecily’s death in 1492, the manor was assigned to her granddaughter, Elizabeth of York, as part of her jointure.
Thus, we can surmise that being so close to Coberley created the perfect opportunity for the Queen to inspect the lands and manor that belonged to her. However, the visit looks to have been fleeting. As the above quote suggests, Elizabeth was on her way to Prinknash.
A sweeping semi-circular path travels south west from Coberley via Brimpsfield, then turns north west to connect to Prinknash Abbey (pronounced as ‘Prinnish’ Abbey by the locals). I have written about this place before when researching the 1535 progress of Henry VIII and Anne Boleyn. There is a long-held rumour that this latter royal couple visited Prinknash, one of the country houses belonging to the Abbot of Gloucester, which lies south of the city. The rumour tallied with definitive evidence that Henry and Anne would have passed close by to Prinknash on their way to Painswick Lodge from their lodgings in Gloucester. It is not hard to believe that they stopped there for some rest and refreshment as guests of the Abbot.
Today, fittingly, Prinknash is once again a working Benedictine Abbey. A gorgeous Cotswold honey-coloured stone building sits perched on the side of a hill overlooking the slopes that lead down towards Gloucester. It was once surrounded by a deer park, which made for fine pastime and likely explained its appeal to Henry VIII. This, I think, strengthens the claim that he visited Prinknash with Anne at his side in 1535.
Much of the current building’s appearance dates to the reign of Henry VIII. Although it had belonged to the Abbots of Gloucester since the eleventh century (a gift from the aforementioned Giffard family), Abbot Parker, the last Abbot of Gloucester, was responsible for much of the renovations to the building in 1520.
The date tallies with the stained glass once found in the dining room at Prinknash. The glass was moved to the cloisters of Gloucester Cathedral in 1928 (where the entire set can still be seen – see image below). The set contains the coats of arms of Henry VIII and Katherine of Aragon, alongside those of Abbott Parker, Jane Seymour, Edward VI and members of the Brydges family of Coberley Hall; at one point, they became the owners of Prinknash Abbey following the Dissolution of the Monasteries.
In addition, a ceiling boss at Prinknash is carved into the emblem of the York’s fetterlock and falcon insignia, thought to commemorate Elizabeth’s visit to Prinknash. But nowhere do we see the coat of arms of Henry VII. Is this more evidence that the King did not visit Prinknash?
From Prinknash, now apparently escorted by the Abbot of Gloucester, Thomas Braunche, the royal party began travelling north to Gloucester. We do not know the route they took to reach The Vineyard at Over, west of the city. However, I imagine one distinct possibility would be to pass through Gloucester’s East Gate. As British History Online states, ‘The road from Painswick…entered by the east gate, or Ailes gate’. This would take Elizabeth (and possibly Henry if he was indeed with the Queen at this point) along Eastgate and into Westgate, riding straight through the middle of the city and passing its glorious cathedral to reach the West Gate. This gate gave access to Gloucester from the west (and to the now vanished castle) and, as the image below shows, straddled the Westgate Bridge crossing the River Severn. In fact, a series of long bridges and a causeway linked Gloucester to Over by spanning the river and the low-lying water meadows adjacent to it (see the image below).
It is hard to imagine Henry and Elizabeth not stopping at Gloucester Cathedral to hear the Mass and for the City to give thanks for their coming, but if they did, the records are silent.
On the far side of the bridge lay the tiny settlement of Over. There, upon a hillock, was another of the Abbot’s country lodgings, known as The Vineyard. Just as at Prinknash, the view across the wide valley to the hills in the west and south was far-reaching. The image shown below, I believe, has been sketched either from, or close to, the site of The Vineyard. The causeway, bridges, and the Westgate and Gloucester Cathedral are all visible.
The Vineyard: The ‘Abbot’s Place’ at Over
John Felde gromes [grooms] of the Quenes chambre for thaire costes wayting upon the Quenes joyelles [jewels] from Langley to Northlache [Northleach] from Northlache to Coberley from Coberley to the Vineyarde from the Vyneyarde to Flexley Abbey from Flexley Abbey to Troye and from Troye to Ragland by the space of vj dayes…
Long before The Vineyard was built on the site, the terraced slopes at Over cultivated wine for the abbot and his brethren. Abbot Staunton (1337–1351) was the first abbot of St Peter’s Abbey to build a ‘camera’ on the hilltop at Over; that is a wooden pleasure palace, which he surrounded by a wall. His successors continued his work, eventually building a ‘large house [there] to which they [the abbots of Gloucester] frequently retired.’ Access was via a long drive, which wrapped around the eminence on three sides before reaching the outer gatehouse. This led directly into the courtyard.
Thus, when Elizabeth (and Henry) rode up that driveway towards The Vineyard, under the gatehouse and into the courtyard, they would have been greeted by a mid-fourteenth /early fifteenth-century building with four ranges arranged around a single courtyard, the site being encompassed by a moat.
From Fosbroke’s account of 1819, which drew upon many earlier papers, Abbot Walter Froucester added the ‘Abbot’s chamber, parlour and gates’ around the turn of the fifteenth century. Presumably, the existence of ‘gates’ means that there were two gates, one outer and the inner one already mentioned.
Following the Dissolution of the Abbey in 1539, the Bishops of Gloucester continued to use The Vineyard until it was largely destroyed by fire during the Civil War. Despite extensive damage done to the house, Fosbroke notes that later in the seventeenth century, the then bishop, Bishop Frampton, ‘endeavoured to contrive the reparation of the old large building’, along the way referring to The Vineyard and its ‘large old hall’ and chapel.
Sadly, his attempts were in vain. The so-called Glorious Revolution of 1688 brought Frampton’s grand plans to a halt. The new owner began to tear down the building and sell off its contents, leaving merely the imprint of the courtyard and moat in the ground atop the hillock. And with that, The Vineyard was lost forever.
Today, all that remains are the imprint of a flat plateau of land (the courtyard) and an impression of the moat (see image above). However, helpful handwritten notes (undated, but clearly from the second half of the twentieth century) cite a visit by the Chief Inspector of Ancient Monuments in November 1953.
From the thickness of the foundation walls, the said inspector estimated the manor to have been about 20 ft high. The notes also highlight how various fragments of architectural stone, including a two-light window with cusped arches, had been incorporated into the fabric of a much later building on the site. He surmised that these decorative stone features must have been salvaged from the ruins of the original manor house.
THE NEXT STOP ON YOUR PROGRESS IS FLAXLEY ABBEY: Click HERE to continue your journey…
Visitor Information
Unusually, this is one site that I cannot recommend you try and visit. I have tried once – and failed to get access – and, more recently, have made extensive enquires with the local history society. Their Chairman tells me the land is now privately owned by the residents of a housing estate, which now sprawls across the site of the old vineyard. However, it is clear from Googlemaps that the plateau of land at the top of the hillock and an imprint of the moat survive. However, access is nigh on impossible.
For Rest and Refreshment: None.
Transport: By car or possibly a taxi from Gloucester (just make sure they wait for you or arrange a pick-up!)
Accommodation:
The New Inn, Gloucester: For more budget-style accommodation but bags of history and a convenient location in central Gloucester, try The New Inn, the oldest galleried inn in England. The are records of the Bishop of Gloucester announcing the accession of Lady Jane Grey to the throne following the death of Edward VI from the gallery of the inn.
Painswick Lodge: Further afield but more idyllic is Painswick Lodge. This was once owned by the likes of William Kingston and John Dudley, the future Duke of Northumberland. Henry VIII and Anne Boleyn visited it during the 1535 progress. It is now run as a B&B.
Other Nearby Tudor Locations of Interest:
Gloucester (1 mile): Gloucester was a significant city during the medieval and Tudor periods. It had five monastic institutions: The great St Peter’s Abbey (now Gloucester Cathedral); St Oswold’s Priory; Greyfriars; Blackfriars; Whitefriars and Llanthony Priory (note: we have already heard about the priory of Llanthony Secunda delivering gifts of cheese to the Queen. The priory has strong links with Henry VII). Gloucester Cathedral witnessed the coronation of the young Henry III in 1216 and a visit from Henry VIII and Anne Boleyn in 1535. You may read about the entire 1535 progress in my co-authored book, In the Footsteps of Anne Boleyn, and visit the remains of all of the above. However, the old abbey, now Gloucester Cathedral, should not be missed because of its glorious architecture, tombs and the finest cloisters in the country.
You can reach Gloucester from London via train. Trains leave Paddington Station in London and take about 2 hours with a change of station at Swindon.
Tudor House Museum (1-2 miles): This is a Tudor merchant’s house dating from the turn of the sixteenth century. There is a legend that Bishop Hooper stayed at the house the night before he was executed for heresy by being burnt at the stake in Gloucester in 1555. However, there is no definitive proof of this. Today, the house is run by Gloucester Civic Trust, which works to preserve the building for future generations. Guided tours are available.
Brockworth Court and Gardens (6 miles): An atmospheric and part-timbered house that dates from the 1290s, with additions in later centuries. It was another country house owned by a religious institution based in Gloucester – this time by the prior of Llanthony Priory. It is quite possible that either Henry VIII, with or without Anne Boleyn, visited Brockworth briefly during the 1535 progress while based in Gloucester. There are some interesting wall paintings relating to Katherine of Aragon in one of the upstairs rooms. The house and gardens are generally not open to the public, but access might be possible by appointment. Check out the web link above for more info.
If you want to try and reach Brockworth without a car, you can take the bus to Brockworth from Gloucester, which takes about half an hour. There will be some walking to reach your destination on Court Road.
Prinknash Abbey (11 miles): The former country manor belonging to the abbots of Gloucester is now a small, working Benedictine Monastery. While the community is closed, there is a cafe onsite and a shop selling produce from the abbey. There are ample gardens to walk in, and you can visit the chapel. The cafe is good, and the incense produced is of some repute! You will likely need a car to reach the abbey.
Sources:
A History of the County of Gloucester: Volume 7. Originally published by Oxford University Press for Victoria County History, Oxford, 1981.
A History of the County of Gloucester: Volume 4, the City of Gloucester. Originally published by Victoria County History, London, p242-245.1988.
A History of the County of Gloucester: Volume 4, the City of Gloucester. Originally published by Victoria County History, London, p63-67, 1988.
Conciliar Politics and Adminsitration in the Reign of Henry VII, by Lisa L. Ford (Ph.D Thesis
Original History of the City of Gloucester almost Wholly Compiled from New Materials … including also the Original Papers of Ralph Bigland (London) p. 200-3, by Fosbrooke, T.D., 1819.
The History of the County of Gloucester, Compressed, and Brought Down to the Year 1803, by Thomas Rudge, Sir Robert Atkyns · 1803
The Vineyard, Over. The Gatehouse Gazeteer.
Transactions – Bristol and Gloucestershire Archaeological Society by Bristol and Gloucestershire Archaeological Society. 1879.
Washburn, J., 1825, Bibliotheca gloucestrensis: a collection of scarce and curious tracts relating to the county and city of Gloucester illustrative of and published during the Civil War; with an historical introduction, notes and an appendix
