The Tudor Travel Guide

Your Visitor's Companion to the Aristocratic Houses of the Sixteenth Century

st-georges-chapel-with-vault

The Chapel of St George, Windsor. Notice the black marble slab in floor, marking the spot of the vault which lies underneath

 

Have you ever felt just a bit peeved at how Henry VIII treated the women in his life? Have you ever wished you’d just like to give him a piece of your mind? I have. Of course, that is never going to happen; all those characters we know so well, including Henry himself, are long gone. Yet, to use a turn of phrase, there is still a way to ‘walk all over him’ as Harry and Meghan will do as they marry in St. George’s Chapel, Windsor in just under two weeks time. Henry VIII is buried alongside Jane Seymour in the crypt underneath the main chancel. It’s a fascinating story. So if you’d like to follow in Harry and Meghan’s footsteps, and walk over royal bones, then read on.

 

Henry Tomb

The marble slab marking the resting place of Henry VIII and Jane Seymour.

King Henry VIII’s Tomb: Grand Plans

Never knowingly underselling himself, Henry had always planned a grand funerary monument, as befitting a great Christian prince of Europe. Following the fall of Cardinal Wolsey in 1529, he earmarked the marble base, pillars and statues which the cardinal had already commissioned for his own tomb. The king’s big ideas were captured in a document called, ‘The manner of the Tombe to be made for the Kings Grace at Windsor’ (now sadly lost).

It was to be ‘ornamented with ‘fine Oriental stones’ and resplendent with white marble pillars, gilded bronze angels, four life-size images of the King and Queen Jane, and a statue of the King on horseback under a triumphal arch, ‘of the whole stature of a goodly man and a large horse’. In all, there were to be one hundred and thirty-four figures, including St George, St John the Baptist, the Prophets, the Apostles and the Evangelists, ‘all of brass gilt as in the pattern appeareth’.’

At the time of Henry’s death, the tomb was still incomplete, so Henry’s corpulent body was temporarily placed inside a vault under the quire in St George’s Chapel, alongside Queen Jane. There they would remain, despite the king’s great plans.

 

Henry VIII

King Henry VIII

 

Henry VIII’s Tomb is Lost

Although Henry states in his will that the tomb was almost complete, the wars with Scotland and France during the latter part of Henry’s life had drained the Exchequer and work slowed down. Around the same time, the master sculptor responsible for the work, Rovezzano, returned to Italy due to bad health.

Benedetto was commissioned to complete the tomb for the king, however, Henry VIII did not see it finished. Each of Henry VIII’s three children expressed their intention to complete the memorial, but failed to do so. Elizabeth I even moved the parts of the tomb to Windsor in 1565, where they stayed until 1645-6. During the Civil War elements of the tomb were sold to raise funds.

Just 3 years later, in 1649, the vault was opened and the body of the executed Charles I was placed next to Henry’s coffin. In the same century, the body of a stillborn child of the future Queen Anne was also interred in the vault. The coffins remained undisturbed until the tomb was rediscovered in 1813 during excavations for a passageway to a new royal vault. At this time, A.Y. Nutt, Surveyor to the Dean and Canons, made a watercolour drawing of the vault.

 

coffinhenryviiistgeorgeschapelwindsor

The vault in which the coffins of Henry VIII (middle), Jane Seymour (right) and Charles I (left) rest.

The Wolsey Angels

 

Until recently, only the black stone chest, later used for Admiral Lord Nelson’s monument in the crypt of St Paul’s Cathedral, and four bronze candlesticks, now at St Bavo Cathedral in Ghent, were thought to have survived from the Wolsey / Henry tomb.

 

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However, in 1994, two angels appeared in auction, unillustrated and catalogued simply as being ‘in Italian Renaissance style’. They were acquired by a Parisian art dealer and later the Italian scholar Francesco Caglioti convincingly attributed them to Benedetto. In 2008 the remaining pair of angels was discovered at Harrowden Hall, a country house in Northamptonshire, now owned by the Wellingborough Golf Club, where all four angels once stood on top of the gateposts.

In 2015, these angels were acquired by the Victoria and Albert  Museum at a cost of £5 million, thus saving an incredibly important piece of Tudor history (read more here).

 

When all is Said and Done

Some years ago, when I was writing Le Temps Viendra; a Novel of Anne Boleyn, I went to St George’s Chapel. Having walked in Anne’s footsteps all the way to the scaffold, I felt I had some unfinished business with Henry. As I stood in front of the marble slab, looking down upon it and with tourists milling all around me, I quietly had my say. So, if you want to get an audience with His Majesty, there’s no place to get more up close and personal…and when Harry and Meghan walk down the aisle and over that black slab, I’ll be remembering…will you?

 

Visitor Information

If you are visiting Windsor Castle, particularly in the height of the tourist season, I highly recommend that you book tickets online in advance. You can buy them here. My other top tip for visiting the castle is to get there at the opening time. If you want a bit of peace and space to allow your imagination to work its wonders, I highly recommend you get ahead of the crowds.

The other thing to note about Windsor Castle is that whilst the exterior of Windsor Castle has remained largely unaltered since the sixteenth century, unless you know what you are looking for, it is difficult to pick up any Tudor vibe inside; sadly, the interiors have been greatly altered over time. If you want to time travel and see the Windsor that Henry knew, you will find all you need to know in In the Footsteps of the Six Wives of Henry VIII. This covers the Tudor appearance and layout of the royal apartments in the castle, plus some of the key events which occurred there.

Notes:

Benedetto da Rovezzano (1474-1554) was a contemporary of Michelangelo and was described by Giorgio Vasari as ‘…among our most excellent craftsmen.’ One of his early commissions, in 1508, was to finish Michelangelo’s bronze sculpture of David (now lost), indicating his metalworking skills were much in demand. He worked in England between 1519 and 1543 where his pre-eminent patron became Cardinal Wolsey.

2 thoughts on “Windsor Castle – Harry and Meghan: Walking Over Royal Bones

  1. Ian Bird says:

    Absolutely excellent article , thanks for writing and posting.
    I had the honour of visiting St Georges Chapel last September and as it was a Sunday we went to the morning service. That week I had been on a Henry VIII trail visiting places he had been and where each of his wives had been. So to sit in the pew by the side and look down on this black slab which is Henry VIII tomb was very surreal and hard to imagine he was down there. Having been told about the elaborate tomb that was planed for him and knowing what his character was like made it even more surreal.
    I suppose though that those in the know, Henry VIII gets the last laugh as with the black slab where it is it will appear a lot on the TV during the wedding affording Henry free publicity which he would not have got had he been interned in his big original tomb.
    Carry on with your great travel guides.
    Many Thanks

    1. The Tudor Travel Guide says:

      Thanks Ian. Your kind words are much appreciated. A bit of cheering form the side lines always encourages a writer to write more! It is surreal looking down on Henry’s tomb, after all the stories we have read about him, all that we know, with all those emotions in tow…and yes, I can just see Henry having something to say about being right at the heart of the ceremony on the 19th!

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