The 1535 Progress: Church House, Salisbury, Wiltshire

His Grace has been in Hampshire from about the 10th Sept., and intends to be till 19th Oct., except four days that he lieth in Salisbury.
Sir Anthony Wyndesore to Lord Lisle, 9 October 1535.

Henry VIII is known to have visited Salisbury on three occasions. In 1511 and 1514, he was accompanied by the then-queen, Katherine of Aragon. Twenty-one years later, he would return for the final time, on this occasion, with Anne Boleyn by his side.

As contemporary records are silent after the couple’s visit to Portsmouth and Portchester, we do not know exactly where the royal party went or was lodged between 5 and 9 October. Given the distances involved, they likely made their way from Portchester directly toward Salisbury and probably via Southampton, heading along the main Southampton to Bristol road, arriving on Friday 8 or Saturday 9 October.

Wiltshire Community History describes how, in an assembly held on 27 September 1535, it was agreed that:

If the King’s Grace and the Queen do come to the city, then, Mr Mayor, and his brethren who shall have been mayors, were to receive them in scarlet gowns; and the forty-eight [i.e. members of the city council], and other honest men, in violet colour, after their best manner, to the honour of the city, on horseback. And that the mayor and commonalty shall give to the Queen’s Grace a purse of gold, amounting to £20.3s.4d to be levied on the goods of the chamber, and to be delivered by the mayor. Also that all the torches and torchets, of all occupations within the city, be viewed and numbered by the mayor, at his discretion; so that if the King’s grace do come late to this city, that then the said torches and torchets be in readiness to light, with convenient bearers, to give them due attendance, then to convey the King’s Grace to his lodging, to the honour of the city.’

It is splendid to imagine all the city officials bedecked in their finery and perhaps even greeting the royal party by torchlight as they wound their way through the city’s medieval streets, much as we know they did in Gloucester – find out more in this blog.

Records show that Anne did indeed receive the purse of £20. 3s. 4d. and the then Precentor, Thomas Benett, offered the royal guests the use of his house, Leadenhall in the Close, a building which still stands today close to Salisbury Cathedral and Museum.

In the end, the King and Queen were the guests of John Tuchet, 8th Baron Audley, for the duration of their two-day stay. We know this because of a letter dated 10 October, written by Lord Audley to Cromwell in which he prays that the King and Queen ‘were satisfied with their poor lodging in his house’. That being so, it would seem that Anne and Henry stayed in the present-day Church House on the south side of Crane Street and, in the oldest part, the western range, which faces onto the River Avon. Fortunately for us, this splendid Tudor house still stands today, and forms offices for the Diocese of Salisbury, to which we shall turn in a moment.

Interestingly, though, before we do so, there is another snippet of information associated with the events of the very same day. Clearly, the business of the state and domestic concerns were never far away from the King and Anne. In a tantalising and fascinating insight into the life of the young Princess Elizabeth, we read that it was whilst at Salisbury that Henry decided that his two-year-old daughter was old enough to be weaned:

The King having considered the letter to Cromwell from Lady Brian and other of the Princess’s officers, has determined that she shall be weaned with all diligence, and that Langley shall be put in readiness. Sends letters to them, and one from the Queen to Lady Brian, Salisbury 9^th Oct.

So we know that at least part of that day was taken with concerns about the welfare of Anne’s beloved daughter. Did Henry and Anne discuss such matters in the house on Crane Street? Of course, we cannot know, but it is a charming insight into the everyday conversation of the two concerned parents.

Church House, Crane Street

This is a little gem of a find, well known to local historians but lost mainly to those from a wider audience who wish to follow in the footsteps of Anne Boleyn. The current-day Church House comprises a group of buildings laid out around a courtyard. The north range, which fronts onto Crane Street, is part of the oldest of these, dating from the construction of the house in 1455. At this time, the owner was William Lightfoot and the building was known as le Faucon, or ‘the Falcon’. Quite apt when we think of the famous guest who lodged there some eighty years later!

The interior of the building has been altered considerably over the years. However, the outside certainly retains a good deal of its medieval charm, with a well-proportioned four-centred arch, old oak doors, and a very elegant stone-built hall, perhaps now serving as one of the country’s grandest photocopying and storage rooms!

Viewing Church House from across the river, you can see its magnificent bow window facing west. This window once lighted the main solar and was almost certainly part of the house that lodged Henry and Anne during their stay. As we shall see shortly, this room and the great hall can still be accessed today.

Why Did Henry And Anne Visit Salisbury?

The four-day diversion of the royal party from Hampshire into the heart of Wiltshire is a little perplexing. Following the visit to Salisbury, Henry and Anne did not continue in a westerly direction, which would have taken them back toward Bristol as they had initially intended. It seems that after lodging at nearby Clarendon for two days, the court headed back eastwards, eventually realigning with the original geists at Easthampstead, close to Windsor. So why did Henry and Anne make the diversion?

Other than plans for the reception of the King and Queen, there are no records of any notable ceremonies in Salisbury coinciding with the visit, such as those in Winchester. However, given what we know about Tudor royal progress and the typical reception of the King and Queen whenever they entered a major town or city, it is unthinkable that the royal couple did not pay a visit to the cathedral or give thanks at the high altar.

It is also clear that the couple spent time hunting and hawking in the surrounding countryside, hence accounting for their short sojourn to what had been one of the finest medieval deer parks in England – the Royal Park of Clarendon. It might also be possible that Anne wished to visit nearby Wilton Abbey.

In 1528, she had battled head-on with Cardinal Wolsey to promote Eleanor, the sister of her brother-in-law, William Carey, to the position of abbess. In the end, both Wolsey and Anne lost out when both ladies’ reputations were found to be sullied. However, we also know that Anne visited the Abbey of Syon in the same year (1535). Perhaps reformation was on her mind, or maybe she just wished to take the opportunity to visit Eleanor, her kinswoman. Again, such thoughts are merely postulation, and sadly, so long as the records remain silent, we will probably never know the real motivation for Henry and Anne’s brief return to the West Country.

To listen to the podcast associated with this blog click here.

The next stop on the progress is The Vyne, click here to continue.

Visitor Information

Church House can be viewed from Crane Street at any time. Since 1881, it has been owned by the Salisbury Diocese, and today, it functions as part of their offices. The public can access a few rooms inside Church House by appointment. Happily for us, this includes the old Great Hall and solar. To ensure the rooms are not being used for meetings, and therefore to avoid disappointment, I recommend contacting the reception in advance and enquiring about a suitable time to make your visit.

Church House is in the centre of Salisbury, within easy walking distance from the cathedral, so it is very accessible if you are visiting the city. Please enter under the main gateway, turn right, and present yourself at the main reception. We found the staff there wonderfully helpful and delightfully proud—and interested—in their royal connections.

Today, the great hall is used as a library and photocopying room. Although it has been altered and the interiors much remodelled over the years, it remains a charming example of a great hall befitting a medieval townhouse of a wealthy merchant or gentleman.

Upstairs, which has again been extensively remodelled and its interiors adapted to office life, you can view the room, which most likely provided one of the lodging rooms for the royal couple. Today, it functions as a meeting room with modern office furniture. However, once again, the energy of the place sings of a nobler past, and it is possible to see glimpses of its earlier grandeur.

Salisbury Cathedral is close by, and as it is both a remarkable historical monument and must have witnessed Anne’s visit during her stay in the city, we heartily recommend a visit.  

Almost directly opposite the cathedral’s great west doors is Salisbury Museum, where refreshments and toilets are available.

Finally, if you intend to combine your visit to Salisbury with the Old Palace of Clarendon, I recommend getting the small booklet Clarendon: Landscape, Palace and Mansion by Tom Beaumont James.