The 1502 Progress: The Old Manor of Langley, Langley, Oxfordshire

Distance from Woodstock: 12.5 miles

Itm the same day delivered for the Quenes almous at hir departing from Woodstok to Langley
The Chamber Books of Elizabeth of York, August 1502.

Around 4-6 August, Henry VII and Elizabeth of York arrived at The Old Manor of Langley. Elizabeth seems to have recovered from her sickness, at least enough to continue the onward journey. This brief period of illness may have been related to her pregnancy. However, as we shall see shortly, the Queen’s Chamber Books reveals that the Queen was not the only member of her household to fall ill while at Woodstock. One of her ladies, Mistress Anne Saye, had to remain behind at the palace. Clearly, she was too unwell to travel. This suggests to me that some kind of transmissible, infectious disease was the likely cause of Elizabeth’s ‘sickness’, from which the Queen quickly recovered.

A Brief History of the Old Manor at Langley

The ruins of King John’s Palace, which was inhabited by the royal family till the beginning of the reign of Charles I, are still to be seen on the edge of the forest at a place called Langley; these vestiges of the palace remain: The Queen’s garden, park pool, the slaughter-house, the park closes with stone walls ten feet high, a barn and a farm-house with Gothic arches and windows. The prospect is extensive and beautiful.
Warton 1815

Some of the earliest mentions of a manor at Langley refer to the legend that King John created a hunting lodge on the site. John was undoubtedly born in nearby Oxford. According to Victoria County History, he regularly visited the Palace at Woodstock and, in 1205, made as many as six visits. However, there is no definitive proof that he created the lodge. However, as we shall see in the ‘Visitor Information’ section, this fragment of the manor’s long and noble associations has since come back into focus.

From 1492, the Manor at Langley was a royal property. It was perched on a ridge of high ground overlooking the ancient village of Shipton-Under-Wychwood in Oxfordshire, adjacent to the royal Forest of Wychwood. The forest covered a vast area that connected Langley with Woodstock, the latter lying approximately 8-9 miles to the east as the crow flies. Thus, it is easy to imagine the royal cavalcade snaking along the quiet forest tracks, riding beneath the shimmering mantle with only the sound of summer’s symphony and the scuffing of horses’ hooves to accompany them.

There had been a lodge at Langley since the Norman Conquest. Initially, it housed the Royal Forester, responsible for caring for the forest on the King’s behalf. According to a recent publication from The Victoria History of the Counties of England, the Rasurs were the first family to hold the hereditary tenancy of the manor. They changed their name to ‘de Langley’ by the early thirteenth century. 

When the last male ‘de Langley’ died of the Black Death in 1362, his widow, Alice, married John Giffard. She could keep all of her late husband’s property and lands thanks to the foresight of her husband, who acted to ensure that their assets were legally held jointly.

The Verney family inherited next, before the manor passed, with much of the surrounding countryside, to the Earls of Warwick. When Lady Anne Beauchamp, widow of Richard Neville, the Kingmaker, died in 1492, the manor became the Crown’s property. 

Like his predecessor, Henry VII seems to have been as fond of Langley as Woodstock, using it as a convenient hunting lodge when the wider court was staying at the nearby palace. Upon acquiring Langley, specific structures were repaired, including the ‘dovecot, dog kennel, bakehouse, great barn and water conduit’. However, this was not sufficient for Henry. Four years later, significant works were underway, supervised by the master mason, John Lee. It seems that Henry VII virtually rebuilt the manor house. This work was completed by 1500. However, in 1502, possibly in advance of the royal couple’s arrival, further repairs were completed on the ‘king’s hall’.

It seems that no sooner had Elizabeth settled herself into her privy chambers than she received more Llanthony Cheese from the prior of Llanthony Priory via one of his servants. We also see money being paid to ‘Maistres Bourne for money by hur payed for Maistres Anne Saye’, the young woman I mentioned above who was still languishing in her sick bed at Woodstock. Elizabeth also paid to buy fabric, and for a kirtle and hose to be made for Anne. The Queen was undoubtedly a generous mistress, and the Chamber Book lists countless occasions when Elizabeth of York bought fabric and ordered clothes for various family and household members. On the 6 August, another item in the Chamber Books notes: ‘the same day delivered for the Quenes almous at hir departing from Woodstok to Langley, ‘ suggesting that on this occasion, the couple’s stay at the hunting lodge in the forest was brief. They would soon be continuing their ride westwards and into Wales.

Recreating the Lost Palace

The History of the King’s Works details repairs made to the palace through the reigns of Henry VII and Henry VIII, both of whom visited the manor regularly. However, sadly, there are no drawings or floor plans that we know of which allow us to visualise a coherent picture of what the hunting lodge looked like at its zenith.

In 1536, the accounts of James Nedeham, as Clerk of the Works, show that work was done to the King’s and Queen’s wardrobes and lodgings, including new plastering. The account provides us with other fleeting glimpses of the buildings that Elizabeth would have known. We hear about stairs going from the King’s lodgings to the hall, from the queen’s apartments to the inner court, and a flight of stairs leading directly to the ‘king’s garden’. In 1539, the roofs of ‘divers lodgings’ in the inner court were repaired, as were the roofs of the king’s apartments.

The overall picture is fragmentary and not helped by the fact that only a portion of one wing of the manor house survives, incorporated into a nineteenth-century farmhouse. The evidence does, however, indicate that this was only a tiny part of a much larger house, confirmed by the complex of earthworks surrounding it.  

Clearly, though, it was comfortable enough to frequently entice the court to stay there and be considered a possible nursery for the young Princess Elizabeth in the 1530s. Of course, eventually, on that account, Hatfield won the day. 

According to The History of Shipton-Under-Wychwood, Elizabeth visited as Princess in 1554, as did her sister, Mary, in 1543. The last king rumoured to have stayed at Langley was Charles I. After that, a newer house was built in nearby Cornbury Park. This was considered a more suitable place to stay, and the fate of the old manor house at Langley as a royal hunting lodge in decline was well and truly sealed.

The Old Manor of Langley Today

In Elizabeth’s day, Langley lay adjacent to the extensive Wychwood Forest. Today, this remains in pockets around the nearby town of Charlbury, but the location of the lost manor is isolated and forgotten on a ridge close to the town of Shipton-under-Wychwood. 

Recently, the longstanding farmhouse has been renovated and rebranded ‘King John’s Palace’ and operates as a luxury holiday cottage with six bedrooms, sleeping up to 12 guests.

King John’s Palace stands as the only witness to the site of this once beloved medieval palace.

Although extensively remodelled in 1858, Langley Farm incorporates fifteenth, sixteenth and eighteenth-century fabric, including Tudor walls on the north and west and a lovely bay window of two storeys, fronting onto the passing lane. Inside, on the soffit of the upper bay window, the initials ‘H E’ for Henry VII and Elizabeth of York survive. Similar initialling can also be seen on the house’s exterior.

The house is privately owned and can only be viewed from the street. The now-empty field adjacent to the present building vividly shows the earthworks of the lost garden, separated from the house by a notable ditch. Back in the day, perhaps this was traversed by a bridge that connected the manor with fine Tudor gardens?

The magnificence of the original Tudor manor house is gone, but the peace that would have enfolded the place endures, so it is relatively easy to summon an image of Elizabeth, sumptuously attired, strolling with her ladies in the manicured pleasure gardens, breathing in the scents of summer, finding solace in the tranquillity of the palace as she pondered the heaviness in her heart at the loss of a son, while hoping that the babe she carried would cement the future of the dynasty.

Visitor Information

In our opinion, Langley is a haunting place. It is a location whose significance is virtually lost, even to the local population.

Finding the location can be tricky, and you will probably need a map. Perhaps the easiest way is to locate the B4437 between Charlbury and the A361 near Shipton-under-Wychwood. Look out for a crossroads which signpost Swinbrook two and a half miles to the right as you head toward Charlbury. The first turn on your left is signpost Fordwells. Take this turn and continue along the road until you come to a farmhouse. This is ‘King John’s Palace’, comprising a house fronting the road and several farm buildings straddling the lane.

You can pull over here and wander along the deserted lane. Sadly, you cannot get a good view of all these pieces from the road, and the property is on private land, so it cannot be accessed ordinarily. However, in the field to the left of the house, as you stand facing it, you will clearly see the earthworks of a ditch. The field then levels to a plateau; on this plateau, the formal gardens of the palace were once laid out for pleasure.

For Rest and Refreshment, nearby pubs can be found in Swinbrook – The Old Swan, once owned by the Dowager Duchess of Devonshire, or The Shaven Crown at Shipton-under-Wychwood, once part of an old monastic complex, hence the rather unusual name! It is a fascinating old building and will give your visit to the area an extra sprinkling of historical fairy dust. 

Transport: This is one of those occasions when, unless you are very determined, you will need a car to visit the site of the old manor. It is incredibly rural and is not accessible by train. While buses run to nearby villages, including Leafield (from Witney), you would need to walk between 30-60 minutes to reach the site of Langley Manor from the drop-off point.

Accommodation: As alluded to above, you can now stay in what remains of the manor at Langley. For around £1000 per night, up to 12 guests can enjoy luxury accommodation in the historic, Grade II listed ‘King John’s Palace’. 

Both the Swan Inn and The Shaven Crown are lovely historic buildings. The former is set in the quiet Oxfordshire village of Swinbrook. It is a highly picturesque spot next to the River Windrush, with the village and church having close connections to the Mitford Sisters. (BTW, the parish church is a must for the unusual and fabulous early seventeenth-century tombs by the high altar, while you will find the graves of a couple of the Mitford sisters in the graveyard). The Shaven Crown is situated on the main road running through in Shipton-Under-Wychwood. It was a medieval hostelry and is one of the oldest inns in the country. They also have accommodation that frankly looks gorgeous!

Address and Postcode:  Little Langley, Leafield, Witney OX29 9NZ 

THE NEXT STOP ON THE PROGRESS IS NORTHLEACH: Click here to continue…

Other Nearby Tudor Locations of Interest

Woodstock (12 Miles): Of course, you must visit the site of the Old Manor of Woodstock if you are in the area. Unfortunately, you cannot retrace the more direct route that must have been taken by any royal party travelling between the two, as much of the forest and its ancient trails are gone. Instead, you will need a car to travel via Charlbury and onto Woodstock – a distance of some 13 miles. 

Oxford (20 Miles): A little further afield is the City of Oxford. It is about 10 miles to central Oxford from Woodstock, travelling in a southerly direction. If you are coming from London, there are good connections by bus or rail. Take the train from Marylebone Station; it is a direct connection.

You probably need a full day in Oxford to do the city justice. So, I would suggest an overnight stay. Here are some of the Tudor highlights you might wish to factor into your time in the city.

Many of Oxford’s colleges are medieval or Tudor in origin. Some of the best and most historic include Christ’s College, Magdalene (pronounced Maudlin) College, Oriel College, New College, Merton College and Trinity College. If you need up-to-date information on which colleges can be visited, their opening hours and entrance fees, click here.

Of course, from a Tudor point of view, Oxford is perhaps best known for the Oxford Martyrs: Thomas Cranmer, Hugh Latimer and Nicolas Ridley. All were executed on the orders of Mary I by being burnt at the stake just outside the City walls in 1555 & 1556. This area now lies in the heart of the city. You need to make your way to Broad Street. A small area paved with granite setts forms a cross in the centre of the road, outside the front of Balliol College. This marks the site of their execution. The Victorian spire-like Martyrs’ Memorial, at the south end of St Giles’ nearby, commemorates the events.

Also, about 100 m or so away from the place of execution of the three men, you can view the heavy, oak door from the Bocardo Prison, where Thomas Cranmer was held during part of his house arrest in Oxford. However, he also spent time in luxurious surroundings, including staying with the Dean of Christ Church College. Bocardo Prison once sat above the City’s north gate but has long since been destroyed. To see the door to Cranmer’s cell, you must pay to access the nearby medieval tower of St Michael at the North Gate.

Finally, visit the University Church of St Mary the Virgin. It was here that the three men were publicly tried and then brought just before being led to their execution. It is pretty remarkable and poignant to stand where these dramatic events unfolded.

Sources

The Victoria History of the  Counties of England: A History of the County of Oxford: Volume XIX. Wychwood Forest and Environs. Edited by Simon Townley. Published by the Institute of Historical Research by Boydell & Brewer. 2019

In the Footsteps of Anne Boleyn, by Sarah Morris and Natalie Grueninger. Amberley Publishing. 2013.

The History of the King’s Works, Volume IV: 1485-1660, ed. by H.M Colvin. London: HM Stationery Office, 1982. p. 349-355.

The History of Shipton-Under-Wychwood, by Muriel Groves. 1934