The 1502 Progress: Chepstow Castle, Monmouthshire

Itm the xxvij” day of Septembre to Robert Alyn for his costes prepayring logging forthe Quene from Ragland to Chepstowe by the space of twoo dayes…
The Queen’s Chamber Books  

Having reached the apex of the progress, and after lodging for around one week at Raglan Castle, Elizabeth of York and Henry VII began their homebound journey. By this time, the court had been travelling for around three weeks. The King and Queen would travel back through Gloucestershire and Oxfordshire towards the Old Palace at Woodstock, where the progress had commenced around 5 August.

It is clear from the Queen’s Chamber Books that the next significant stop on the 1502 progress was Berkeley Castle, where the royal couple appeared to stay for around a week. Still in Monmouthshire and around 15 miles to the south-east of Raglan was the town of Chepstow, dominated then, as it is today, by its early, medieval castle. As we see from the opening quote, Robert Alyn was subsequently reimbursed for his troubles in going ahead of the royal party and preparing their lodgings: Itm the xxvij” day of Septembre to Robert Alyn for his costes prepayring logging forthe Quene from Ragland to Chepstowe by the space of twoo dayes…

There is a gap in the Queen’s Chamber Books between 24 August, when ‘Mistress Lee’ took receipt of money won by the Queen at ‘tables’ at Raglan and 28 August, when the books record a goshawk delivered by a servant of Sir Walter Herbert to the Queen ‘at Chepstow’. On the same day, however, another item mentions the ‘mariners who conveyed the Queen’s grace over the Severn at Chepstow’.

The River Severn snakes its way through Monmouthshire’s Wye Valley around the foot of the cliffs beneath the mighty castle. At this point, the river serves as the border between Wales and England. Today, you can cross between the two countries via a pretty iron bridge; it is a picturesque spot and the perfect vantage point to see the extent of Chepstow Castle looming over the river and adjacent town.

Once in England, the next entry in the Chamber Books recorded as being paid on the same day states: Itm the same day to the Quenes purs at Walleston by thandes [the hands] of my Lady Verney. Thus, I am guessing that 28 August was the day the royal party left Chepstow. How long they stayed there, though, is unclear. One night, certainly, and perhaps a couple. And while the place of their actual lodgings in Chepstow is not recorded, it seems unthinkable that it was anywhere other than Chepstow Castle. At the time, this was another property belonging to Charles Somerset by right of his wife, Elizabeth.

The History of Chepstow Castle

Chepstow Castle was founded on the north bank of the River Wye by William Fitz Osbern. He was a French nobleman who came to England with William the Conqueror after the Norman invasion of England in 1066. 

Building began the following year, 1067, with the mighty castle being constructed upon a plateau of a craggy cliff overlooking the River Wye on the Welsh side. As mentioned above, this tidal river meanders through the eponymous valley, separating England from Wales. From here, Chepstow Castle could control this unruly part of the country and the flow of goods up and down the watery highway below.

Although in ruins today, the castle remains an imposing sight. Its four baileys (or courtyards) rise gradually with the contours of the land, from the gatehouse and Lower Bailey in the south through the Middle and Upper Baileys to reach the thirteenth-century Upper Barbican in the north.

The earliest part of the castle is its breathtaking Norman Great Tower, sandwiched between the Middle and Upper Baileys. This awe-inspiring chamber block is the earliest example of its kind in England, providing accommodation for the early lords of the castle and their families. While the roof and interiors are gone, exquisitely carved masonry fragments survive. These give a glimpse into the lost elegance of these high-status chambers.

The revered William Marshal, Earl of Pembroke and Regent for the young Henry III, was the next owner of Chepstow Castle to leave his mark on the fabric of the building. He was responsible for aggrandising the castle by ordering the construction of the current main gatehouse and much of the Middle and Upper Baileys curtain walls in the late twelfth and early thirteenth centuries.

However, in my opinion, when you visit the castle today, you will find some of the most interesting architectural features clustered around the first courtyard, also known as the Lower Bailey. Here, Roger Bigod, Earl of Norfolk (also the nobleman responsible for constructing Framlingham Castle, by the way), developed some of the castle’s finest buildings. In the thirteenth century, the Earl ordered the installation of a new privy lodging range. This range included the kitchen and cellar on the lower floors, with the great hall and privy chambers on the upper floors. 

Across the courtyard stands the formidable Marten Tower. Bigod probably intended this to be used as high-status guest lodgings, perhaps even meant for occupation by the King. Its presence was a sign of the Earl’s status and high standing with his monarch, Edward I.

Exactly where Elizabeth and Henry lodged is impossible to say. However, I would guess that these more ‘modern’ apartments (already 300 years old!) in the Lower Bailey are the most likely contenders. 

While much of the castle’s history is dominated by these mediaeval Marcher Lords, there is still some Tudor history of note. This history is woven into the castle’s fabric and the story of the most dominant aristocratic family of the period: The Earls of Worcester.

As with Raglan, Chepstow Castle came into the ownership of the Earls of Worcester through marriage in 1508, when the heiress of both properties, Elizabeth, the only child of the executed Sir William Herbert, married Charles Somerset, later the 1st Earl of Worcester. Charles was a prominent courtier under Henry VII, travelling with Henry Tudor from Brittany in the run-up to the decisive Battle of Bosworth. His loyal service to the Tudor Crown would continue under his son, Henry VIII. Interestingly, it would be Charles’s daughter-in-law, Elizabeth, by then the Countess of Worcester, who would set the wheels in motion that would eventually destroy the Boleyn faction in 1536.

Charles was fond of Chepstow: both the town and castle. He instigated the fortress’s first major redevelopment since Roger Bigod’s time. He focused on the Lower Bailey, which he turned into a more fashionable ‘Great Court’. The Earl retained the thirteenth-century great hall, installing new Tudoresque fireplaces and windows.

The most significant addition during the Tudor period was a connecting range that ran from the north side of these medieval lodgings via new first-floor chambers adjacent to the gateway that divided the Lower Bailey from the Middle Bailey. While all these latter Tudor structures have gone, you can still see the unmistakable remains of Tudor fireplaces hewn into the dividing curtain wall.

When visiting Chepstow Castle, you must note the Upper and Middle Bailey gateway doors, which are still in situ. Both of these are Tudor. However, the pièce de résistance is the oldest known doorway in Europe. It was once the gateway of the main gatehouse and has been carbon-dated to pre-1190. You can see this gateway inside the privy lodging range in the Lower Bailey, where it has been brought undercover to protect it from the worst weather. If you love touching history like me, this will be perfect for you. If only those doors could talk!

As mentioned above, we know that Elizabeth of York took receipt of a goshawk – a bird of prey – possibly on her final day at Chepstow. It was delivered to her by a servant of their Raglan host, Sir Walter Herbert. In addition to Raglan, Sir Walter held Chepstow Castle in lieu of Charles Somerset until Walter himself died in 1507. It then briefly passed to his widow, Anne, until she died the following year. One imagines Walter travelled with the royal party from Raglan to Chepstow and that, perhaps, the gift of a goshawk was a parting gift from Henry VII’s erstwhile friend.

THE NEXT STOP ON YOUR PROGRESS IS BERKELEY CASTLE, GLOUCESTERSHIRE: COMING NEXT…

Visitor Information

Before you move on from Chepstow, there are some other relevant and historical sites to see. The most significant of these is The Priory Church of St Mary, where Elizabeth Worcester, the aforementioned wife of Henry Somerset, 2nd Earl of Worcester, is buried. However, during my visit to Chepstow, I tried to access the church on the spur of the moment and found it locked up with no sign of life. Therefore, I recommend contacting Chepstow Parish to check when the church is open before your visit. 

The only surviving gateway to the old town is at the top of the High Street. This structure is Tudor, having been rebuilt from the deep pockets of Charles Somerset.

To learn more about all the latest visitor information for Chepstow Castle, visit the Cadw site here.

I tested a couple of restaurants and cafes in Chepstow during my travels. My favourite tearoom, by far, was Marmalade Vintage Tea Rooms at the top of the High Street, near the surviving Tudor gateway into the town. For lunch, why not try The Boat Inn, by the River Wye, just 5 minute’s walk from the castle? It is a characterful pub. The food is basic but adequate.

Other Nearby Tudor Locations of Interest:

Tintern Abbey (5 Miles): If you love wandering among abbey ruins, nearby Tintern, nestled in the glorious Wye Valley, will be just the ticket. As any medieval abbey, it was sleighted following its Dissolution in 1539 and, therefore, is inextricably linked to the seismic religious changes that shook England to its core in the 1530s. You can check out the Cadw website here to learn more about visiting Tintern Abbey.

St Mary’s Priory, Abergavenny (23 Miles): Sometimes referred to as The Westminster Abbey of Wales, St Mary’s Priory in Abergavenny is a delightfully satisfying stop on the Tudor trail. It contains several fabulous medieval and Tudor tombs, most of them members of the Herbert family of Raglan. The most notable so far as our account is concerned, is the tomb of William ap Thomas (the founder of the castle we see today) and his second wife, Gwladus (the Star of Abergavenny). Look out for the stalls carved with Tudor heraldry in the choir stalls, which were placed there for Arthur Tudor and Katherine of Aragon, who resided briefly in nearby Ludlow. As far as I know, they never visited.

The church itself is all that remains of the original Benedictine monastery of St Mary. Entry is free and is always staffed by wardens, should you have a question. However, get there in the morning or early afternoon, as the church closes at 2 pm.

Also in Abergavenny is the Catholic Church of St Mary, which houses the other 1502 chasuble; if you are lucky, prior arrangement will allow you to see it.

Skenfrith, Monmouthshire (3 Miles): Take a 13-mile excursion to the small village of Skenfrith. In the local church (St Bridget’s), you will find the Skenfrith Cope on display. This magnificent garment is dated to the late 1400s and is thought to have been one of the church vestments given to the local religious community by Elizabeth of York and Henry VII during their stay at Troy House or Raglan (although I understand more recently this provenance has been disputed). Still, it is a magnificent survivor of the period.

Tretower Court: (32 Miles): Tretower Court evolved from the adjacent Tretower Castle site and is a very rare example of its type in that it shows how a castle gradually developed into another significant type of medieval building, the fortified manor house or defended house. It has links with the Herbert family of Raglan Castle fame and the Vaughan family, who fought prominently for the Yorkist cause during the Wars of the Roses.